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 Rough Chamber fix ?
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Average Member

181 Posts

Posted - Mar 01 2017 :  10:30:00  Show Profile Send herbeapuce a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi. if I cycle my brass a few times inside the chamber, I get quite a few scratches on them. the rifle is an older Savage 110C in .243 W

I was thinking using a large wool brush on a drill with some kind of polishing compound.... ( rouge, green? ) I believe the chamber is clean (??)

what do you think I should use ?

it is not really a problem, as the marks aren't deep, and I think the brass life won't be diminished that much by those marks ( and I don't shoot it much) ... but still if I can polish the chamber, without ruining it, it could be a fun project....

thanks for your help

picture in the link below

Advanced Member

9148 Posts

Posted - Mar 01 2017 :  10:39:41  Show Profile Send Shastaboat a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I don't think you should do what you propose. I suggest that you might polish your feed ramp but I would suggest that you use a .50 caliber bronze brush and clean your chamber. If this does not correct your issues, then take the rifle to a qualified gunsmith and he may run a finishing reamer into your chamber to clean but not cut the chamber any deeper. If that doesn't do it the Smith can set the barrel back one thread and re-chamber with the finishing chamber reamer to correct depth.
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Paul B
Advanced Member

3983 Posts

Posted - Mar 01 2017 :  15:00:25  Show Profile Send Paul B a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'm inclined to agree with Shasta. I'd especially look at the top edge of the ramp on the locking lug side. There just might be one nasty big burr right at the top edge of the ramp.
I once had a Mark X Mauser in .375 H&H and that top edge looked a lot like the teeth on a Great White Shark. Scratched the brass badly so I sold it after removing the barrel and a little Dremel tool work. Fixed it up quite nicely but I had two .375's at the time and the M70 was a lot more accurate and the stock fit was better so the recoils was not as bad.
I later sold the M70 for something else that I don't even remember.
Paul B.
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Advanced Member

826 Posts

Posted - Mar 01 2017 :  17:23:53  Show Profile Send Zero333 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I've polished 2 rougher chambers.

One of my dremel bit kits has a bunch of different polishing bits. I took one of the longer cylindrical ones and applied polishing compound. I took the jag that it attaches onto and welded it to a 8" rod so I can reach inside the chamber through the receiver.

Put it on a cordless and polished the chamber.

Cleaned the chamber thoroughly afterwards.

The one chamber was having issues with brass sticking and primary extraction was a little harder than normal.

After the polishing, the chamber was a happy one and so was I.

Treat that trigger like it’s your first date, not like you’ve been married to it for 20 years.
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Senior Member

286 Posts

Posted - Mar 02 2017 :  13:35:59  Show Profile Send Ireload2 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I have polished a number of chambers successfully. But I worked as a machinist for 5 years and as a engineer for 45.

There are different techniques you should use depending on the use of a lathe or polishing with with a spinning dowel.
I have polished a lot of reloading dies and chambers on a lathe using 400 grit silicon carbide paper with with WD 40 or something similar. This polishing process only takes a few minutes (1 to 3 minutes) but your barrel has to be removed from the receiver.

If you polish in the receiver I recommend that you use a 1/4" wood dowel about a foot long. Split one end of it with a coping saw and wrap about 6 to 8 inches of 400 grit silicon carbide paper around it. Spin this with an electric drill allowing the spinning silicon carbide paper to center itself. Do not apply side pressure since the tool must center itself to polish uniformly.
This process is slow. I would not polish more than 5 minutes.

There are other ways to polish but I think they are too difficult to explain to insure a quality job.
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Junior Member

73 Posts

Posted - Mar 07 2017 :  23:03:47  Show Profile Send magman a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Let it Be. Or Get A Competent GunSmith Who Knows How to read A Micrometer & Understands HOW to use a finish reamer for the caliber. and KNOWS how to use a A GoNoGo Gauge to fix/fit Your BoreCase Chamber. Expect to pay for the expertease!
You can hone the chamber & HOPE for a good fix!
Cheap, Fast, Good You Only get Two of the Three!
May You Do Well!
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Advanced Member

636 Posts

Posted - Mar 08 2017 :  13:08:46  Show Profile Send RaySendero a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Originally posted by herbeapuce

Hi. if I cycle my brass a few times inside the chamber, I get quite a few scratches on them. the rifle is an older Savage 110C in .243 W


picture in the link below


I tend to agree with Shastaboat:

That scratch could be from the feed ramp, not the chamber.

Post us some more pics of the rifle's feed ramp and chamber please.

See if you can find that burr.


Edited by - RaySendero on Mar 08 2017 13:09:30
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Advanced Member

4041 Posts

Posted - Mar 08 2017 :  14:03:42  Show Profile Send Onondaga a Private Message  Reply with Quote

I have suggested using machinist indicator ink hundreds of times on this forum. Your brass scratching location is easily diagnosed with indicator ink applied to all associated parts and then cycling ammo. A simple good look with magnification will show you exactly where the scratching originates. Then, polish it out and check again with ink.

A rubber abrasive point for a Dremel Tool is all you need to fix this when you locate the area.

You can pay a competent gunsmith ~ $80/hr or his minimum to do this or do it yourself. Indicator ink is the correct method to locate your scratching area source exactly.


Fine rifles are never really owned.

Edited by - Onondaga on Mar 08 2017 14:07:29
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