|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - Oct 04 2017 : 20:43:09
I know not a popular subject, most use the 28 Ga for birdshot.
Interested if anyone has shot any slugs through their 28 Guage.
Anyone reload their own slugs? An actual slug is hard to find, I have found wads and lead balls at ballistic products. I can't find any molds for 55 Caliber slugs. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/28ga-LGS-28-carrier-ball-25_pak/productinfo/0721628/
I've been using the Brenneke http://www.brennekeusa.com/hunting-ammunition/brenneke-28tm/
The problem with the Brenneke is that the brass is weak and the Blaser R93 I'm using doesn't always extract the fired shell because of a bulge in the brass just after firing, which doesn't happen with every shot, but happens regularly every 2d or 3d shot.
Accuracy is excellent. The 28 Guage fires a .55 caliber 293 grain slug at 1450 fps.
Sure would be nice to trust this Blaser R93, I'm positive it will work excellent on whitetails.
If you think the 28 Guage is a toy and not up to the task, save your breath
|7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
||Posted - Oct 07 2017 : 21:19:34
Then you have the time to research too. Powder selection for any cast bullets is simple to find. Select from all the recommended powders the one with the lowest pressure at the highest velocity for your slug/wad weight. That is the efficiency where accuracy occurs.
Getting your load column height compatible with a standard star crimp is important. Sometimes spacer veggie wads are used under the slug within the shot cup to get the bullet high enough to make the crimp good. Do what you need but a good consistent star crimp works great with shot cup sabot slugs. You may even need to trim petal length too if your petals are longer than your slugs. These are some variables you have to work out. Roll crimping works too but can be tricky to learn and has no advantage over star crimping. It is pretty unusual to just slap a load together and it shoots well. Only using one brand of hulls is very important too as wall thickness differences effect fit and LOAD PRESSURE. I get bulk once fired AA hulls, they generally hold up 3-4 firings.
My New York State does not allow full brass shotshell hulls when loading single projectiles. I would use them if they were legal. Check your laws, brass may be legal for your sabot loads there.
||Posted - Oct 07 2017 : 17:50:34
Thanks for the info Gary, I know you have a lot of experience in this area. I'll have to try that. Those Brenneke's are shooting at or under 2" at 50 yards, which is very good. Too bad extraction is iffy with the Brenneke's.
I've got some work to do, won't make it for this year's deer hunting. Starts here 15 Nov for long guns. Bow hunting is already underway and keeping me busy
||Posted - Oct 07 2017 : 07:13:04
I do have a lot of experience loading slugs and roundballs that fit in a shotcup like a sabot round. Accuracy can be excellent or horrible and fit is the important issue.
A choke or not on the muzzle doesn't matter if your load fits. The correct way to evaluate shotcup sabot slug for fit is a simple test. Place a slug in a shotcup and push it through the barrel from the chamber end. Ideally there is a light resistance all the way down the bore and about 1 to 2 pounds push is good. If your barrel is choked about a 5 pound push is needed at the choke to get the sabot/slug through:
1) If they are loose or drop through they will wobble down the bore and shoot all over the place...bad
2) If they are tighter than 2-5 pounds to get through, the shotcup will catch and / or deform and not release the slug cleanly at the muzzle so they will shoot all over the place...bad. Tight fit is also diagnosed when you pick up your spent wads and they are not in one piece with petals still attached. If they are missing petals and or shredded bad, your fit is too tight.
When the slug is sized correctly so it pushes through with the shotcup at 2-5 pounds, it won't bulge your hull either.
I encourage you to check and get a good fit before you load any shotcup sabot slug rounds. Without the correct fit they are very disappointing. Get a good fit and they will equal or surpass the Brenneke. Personally, Brenneke's shoot terribly for me compared to my Lee Slug in a shotcup sabot. I shoot a Win 1200 with a Carlson Rifled Choke tube and easily group under 2" @ 50 yards and under 4" at 100 yards. It is also reasonably possible to do better than me with a good fit. My grandson's Mossberg 500 shoots my ammo a little better than my shotgun does.
||Posted - Oct 05 2017 : 15:05:27
I'm not sure what diameter for sizing would be best for 28 ga. but the largest diameter that will seat in the shotcup without bulging your 28 ga hull is the best choice. Lee makes custom bullet sizing dies if you need one.
REALs can be sized a lot if needed. The 50 cal REAL I use casts .514 on the leading band and I actually size these at .502" to shoot them in my .500 S&W Mag HandiRifle. I use the 50 Cal. 250 gr REAL and they shoot well from my Handi at 1885 fps verified with 35.2 gr WC820. I took a substantial 190 lb dressed whitetail with a single vital broadside 90 yard shot.
A 300 gr REAL only needs 1550 fps muzzle velocity to deliver 1,000 foot pounds humane harvest load level at 100 yards. That is a very solid Deer load.
||Posted - Oct 05 2017 : 09:11:21
Kosh, neat plan with the 20 gauge, be a good project but might take a while to work all the kinks out. You could shorten your process, contact Ed Hubel, he's got the 12 guage from hell he's been testing for years now.
Thanks for the good info Gary, this might just be an interesting project for me. Those REAL Molds look to be a good ticket to make the slugs. Appreciate it.
||Posted - Oct 05 2017 : 05:27:56
A couple of Lee molds cast slugs very near your needs. The R.E.A.L 54 caliber muzzle loading bullet mold is available in 300 and 380 gr. I believe either of these may fit or could easily be sized to fit a 28 ga shotcup for reloading. Both are on this page and they are $26.98 each direct from Lee:
I cast a lot of REALs in 50 cal and they are easy to cast in pure lead at 750 degrees F. I also cast them in reclaimed jacketed bullet lead as that is 2% antimony and 98% lead and casts the same as pure but is only very slightly harder. Anything harder would limit expansion and not be suitable for shotgun slugs.
Claybuster, Federal, Remington and Winchester all make 3/4 oz. shotcups in 28 ga and those are a good selection for using as a slug sabot in a shotgun. You would have to work up a load, but I'd see that part as fun. 3/4 oz = 328 gr and the 300 gr Lee REAL slug could be used with book charges for 3/4 oz shot loads in 28 ga safely.
Here is some 28 ga shotcups at MidWayUSA in 3/4 and 7/8 oz:
||Posted - Oct 04 2017 : 23:58:23
The ballistics you mentioned are equal to or slightly better than a .44 Magnum fired from a long-barreled pistol. The .44 Mag has dropped game of all descriptions with noteworthy efficacy. I would expect nothing less from a slug-loaded 28 gauge.
I was, for a while, on the look-out for a side-by-side 20 gauge shotgun with 22" - 24" barrels, with the idea of turning it into a poor-man's double-rifle.I just never could come up with a good plan for regulating the barrels to a common point of impact. I piddled with designing a rear-sight assembly that would sit atop the barrels with an aperture for each barrel with which the existing front sight could be used. I got nowhere with it.